6 Tips to Stretching Your Relaxer 6 Months

I get asked almost daily how I stretch my relaxers for so long. Honestly, I've never thought about it. I've always been a serial relaxer stretcher. As a kid, I'd go months and months without relaxing. My mom is a total tom-boy, so she would only "do" our hair (meaning relax it) on special occasions. (Think: Mother's Day, Christmas, and birthdays) In 2013, my goal was to stop stretching past 4 months because of the breakage and general havoc that I think it caused on my ends. But here I am excited to be over 6 months post and loving (almost) every minute of it. Here are 6 ways that I've been able to stretch my relaxer 6 months:



Detangle Pre-Wash: Never, ever, never will you catch me jumping right in the shower without prepping my hair. I firmly believe in pre-wash detangling and a good oily pre-poo. The pre-poo is the place in your regimen to prevent tangles, manage breakage, and keep your hair on your head. I start by detangling using extra virgin coconut oil then when I'm feeling fancy, I'll add conditioner and little indirect heat.

Related: Why I Love Coconut Oil

Ditch the Shampoo: I try to like shampoo. I really do. But my hair hates it. The only shampoo that my hair digs is Matrix Biolage Hydratherapie Hydrating Shampoo so in the last few weeks I've been experimenting with creamy co-cleansers. You can DIY (here's a great recipe) or you can pick up a bottle of Curlicious Curls Cleansing Cream, this cute little co-cleanser that claims to hydrate whilst still cleaning your tresses.

Extreme Deep Condition: I first picked up on this brilliant deep conditioning technique via Carol's Daughter's Olive Oil Infusion. My Extreme Deep Condition layers an oil over your conditioner sealing in all that moisturizing goodness. To help the conditioner penetrate, I add heat via a heat cap for at least an hour. This stretch, I've taken things a step further by deep conditioning overnight. My hair usually feels like silk afterwards. Moisture overload is real so keep your hair balanced by...

Related: Why I Deep Condition Overnight



Use Protein to Maximize Retention: There's no secret that I use protein to maximize my length retention. Protein is a finicky topic for some, so here's my spill: I think that all types of curly hair can and benefit from protein. Yet with all things in life, how you put it together and what you use matters. Take some time and date a couple protein laced products. I'd start with a conditioner with protein closer to the bottom of the ingredient list then work your way up. One protein product that has benefited me from the very beginning of my journey is Chi Silk Infusion. Its silky, smoothing, and strengthening. Win, win, win!

Stop shedding: Its not uncommon to notice a bit more shedding (not to be confused with breakage) as you get deeper into your stretch. Nip it in the bud with green or black tea rinses and follow your favorite smoothing treatment (mine is Paul Mitchell Super Skinny Conditioner) or detangler (I can't get enough of Matrix Biolage Detangling Solution.)

Protective Style: I live in protective styles. Not braids or weaves but buns and updos. Its hard not to want to flaunt your ridiculously long hair, but trust me keeping your ends protected will slow breakage---a long term stretchers worse enemy.

Last but not least, its okay if you love your hair but don't have the patience to fiddle with months of detangling multiple textures. It's important to crawl before your walk. If you usually relax after 6 weeks. Then for your next stretch add one more week. Keep adding a week to each stretch until you've figured out your patience sweet spot then run with that.

What are your todo's for successful stretching?

Besitos!
KLP

[Review] Tropic Isle Jamaican Black Castor Oil

Price: 15.09 for 8oz

Purchased at: Amazon

Promises: Topic Isle Jamaican Black Castor oil is made the traditional hand processed way. Use in hair, skin moisturizer, and massage oil for aces and pains.

Ingredients: 100% Natural Jamaican Black Castor Oil

Directions: Apply to hair like hair grease for moisturizing purposes Massage into scalp for healthy hair growth and scalp problems. If you have dry, perm and colored hair, add 3 tablespoon black castor oil to your favorite conditioner. It adds extra moisture to your hair and seals it in. Use for hot oil treatments: warm three tablespoon castor oil and massage into hair then put on heating cap for half hour. Or massage 3 table spoons of black castor oil into hair, put on heating cap then go under dryer for 10 minutes. 

My Thoughts: In 2010, after struggling with scalp irritation after my relaxers, I started using regular castor oil to base my scalp. The results were great; the itchy, tight, and flaky scalp that I has come to associate with the days following a relaxer was gone. I researched other ways to use it in my hair regimen, but I found it too greasy to use daily with my sleek, straighten hair. Most hair boards and blogs are run a muck with Castor Oil challenges and have advertised its benefits for years. I just couldn't convince myself to buy into the hype. That is until last September. Whilst chatting with my good friend (a natural diva who runs I DO Wedding Connection in Maryland), she mentioned the growth that her sister-in-law saw with she committed to daily JBCO scalp massages. That's when I said, "Self: YOU need to get on this." That night I ordered my first bottle. 
After almost 7 months of using JBCO weekly, I'm just running out of my 8oz bottle. This product is very very thick and a little goes a long way. Once I realized how little I needed to use, I was able to avoid that greasy feeling that had turned me off in the past. My nose is easily offended by smells; I actually don't care for the scent at all. It's that same earthy/burnt scent that accompanies a lot natural products. When I first started to use it, I swear that it felt like my scalp couldn't breathe. I guess that I just needed some time to adjust to the tingly feeling on my scalp and the scent. Now, I don't notice either.

How I've used it:
(1) Pre-poo: I'll massage in my essential oil blend then top it with a little JBCO and conditioner. 
(2) Mid Week Scalp Massage: Once a week I'd use a tiny amount to massage into my scalp whilst moisturizing and sealing. I just couldn't convince myself to do it and more than that. 
(3) Sealer: When I went on my heat detox, I didn't have to fret over weighing down my straight hair with oil. I would moisturize, seal with JBCO, then pin my hair into whatever style I fancied. 

Will I replace my bottle? Yep. Here's why:
- I can't say that my hair is thicker, because it is naturally very thick.
- I can't say that my hair grew any faster, I experienced the same 2 1/2 - 3" of new growth that I see every 12-16 week stretch. 
- My ends fared much better this stretch than ever before during my HHJ. This just be because they were more moisturized and I was participated in the L4LPSC for the last 3 months. 
- My roots well much more manageable during my most recent stretch. They felt more moisturized and seemed to retain moisture better throughout the week.

So, If I can protect and nourish my roots plus maintain my ends with JBCO--then it is definitely a winner in my book!

How do you use JBCO in your regimen?

Un mil besitos!
KLP 

[Review] Just For Me Texture Softener

Price: 6.99 

Purchased at: Sally's (Also available in most grocery stores)

Promises: "Introducing a breakthrough in hair manageability! This naturally gentle product mildly softens curly, coarse or kinky hair while maintaining its natural texture. Contains the exclusive anti-breakage sunflower oil formula to prevent damage from combing and styling."

Kit Contents:  Relaxer cream, activator, sunflower oil, neutralizing shampoo and moisturizer.

Directions: Complete instructions inside box.

How I use it: To texlax my hair every 12-16 weeks. I mix the entire bottle of activator and sunflower oil into the relaxer cream. I've never used the moisturizer.

My Thoughts: 
First, bear with me---please allow me to step on my soap box, just for a sec:

A. This kit is a relaxer. Period. Please do not be fooled by the packaging and branding that the marketing gurus at Just For Me came up with. Granted, it is a mild relaxer, made milder with the use of sunflower mixed into the relaxer cream. However, it's still a relaxer. The active ingredients are the same ones from typical relaxer systems. If you are natural (ie: your not is not chemically processed) and you are looking for a "curl softener" that doesn't contain chemicals, please do not use this product.

B. It truly does bother me that this product is "marketed" to little ones. To each his own, but my daughter's (who is 3 now) head will never see a relaxer or flat iron until her quince. This is the law in my home. No discussion necessary. Although, not illegal, its not cool to me that JFM seems to try very hard to pretend that this kit isn't a relaxer and play on your "mama trying-to-do betta card." I would not recommend this kit for use on a child. 

Whew---the air was light up there! Ha-ha! On to the review. I just need to stress that this kit is a relaxer. I believe that texlaxing is a technique---not a product. I've used this kit since 2006. Back then--I used it to relax bone straight. Today, because I've changed my technique, my results are texlaxed. I'm reviewing this relaxer because I get tons of questions asking which system I use.

For touch ups, I usually need two kits, because I have 2-3 inch roots.  I apply the relaxer to only my roots (never the previously relaxed section) with a sprush and use my fingers to smooth. My total application and smoothing time is 9 minutes (I always use a timer). I rinse thoroughly and massage in a protein treatment (not kit contained. My favorite mid-relaxer protein conditioner is Nexxus Keraphix). After rinsing the conditioner. I neutralize 3 lathers with the neutralizing shampoo that is contained in the kit plus a 5 minute ACV rinse (Not kit contained. 1 part ACV 3 parts water) just to be ensure that the relaxer has been rinsed away and the chemical process has been stopped. Next, I lather up my strands with a chelating shampoo to remove the dulling minerals deposited by the relaxer (My favorite is Kenra Chelating. Lastly, I always end my relaxer touch up with an extreme deep condition to restore moisture to my hair. I use my favorite deep conditioners (Halka Baba de Caracol or Matrix Biolage Conditioning Balm). I've never used the moisturizer in the kit. Honestly, I have no reason. I just like my products better and I know that they work.

Final Cut: 

I'm more than sure that there are better relaxer kits out there. I've stuck with this kit for this long because my results are predictable, I've never had an averse reaction to it, and I just don't have the courage to try another relaxer system. 


I would definitely recommend to an adult that wants to transition from relaxing bone straight to texlaxing. But please, please, please read the directions---all of the directions. Every. time. You. Relax. Things change and you don't want to have regrets. Non-chemically processed ladies---think long and hard before using this product. The results---whether you love or hate it---are irreversible. 

What's your favorite relaxer system?

Un mil besitos
KLP

Reader Q&A

October 2010

Q: I noticed in your "Imperfect Progress" section that your hair grew a ton from 2010-2011. What was your regimen then?
A: I started my healthy hair journey in late 2010 with shoulder length (SL) hair. Unhappy with my ridiculously thins ends, I started tex-laxing in the beginning of 2011 then spent the rest of the year snipping away at my over-processed length. My regimen then is much the same as today; focusing on keeping my moisture levels up, shedding down, and styling with care. (You can check out my regimen here).

Q: Have you ever been natural or have any desire to grow out your hair without chemical relaxers?
A: Si, claro---(Even excluding childhood) I've had "natural" hair as an adult. When I was in college, I discovered the flat iron and forgot allllll about needing to relax my hair to get it straight. Without even realizing it--I went for 2 years without a relaxer. So, I guess that you could say that I was heat-addicted naturalista. As you probably guessed, I had some seriously heat damaged hair. I didn't even know what "heat protectant" was, I cranked my flat iron as high as it would go 400degrees+, and I would flat iron multiple times a day. I got a neck length cut then I went back to the relaxer and decreased my flat ironing to una vez per day. *hangs head* 
Would I ever kick tex-laxing to the curb? Hey, anything is possible. I do love my super curly roots and I've been told that "natural hair" looks "good on me"---whatever that mess means. However, for the time being? The answer is no. Tex-laxing gives me the thickness, strength, and overall health that bone straight relaxed hair lacked with a greater ease of straightening which "natural" hair lacked. Best of both worlds! Now that I'm truly detoxing from the flat iron, lots of folks have asked if I've hopped on the "natural" band wagon. The answer is: "No!! Let me live!"

We love your questions! Keep 'em coming!

Un mil besitos!
KLP

On Deck: Bad Habit Detox

Bad Habit Detoxing
If you are looking for long-term dramatic results in your healthy hair journey, a little (or a lot of) sacrifice is required. To get the results that you want, its no secret that you have to put in work. It's not supposed to be easy, but it is possible. With that said, I have a terrible awful secret to share.

Flat Iron Addiction
Whilst digging around for photo for video that I'm putting together for my grandparent's 50th anniversary, I found a few pictures from the beginning of my HHJ. I was excited to see the progess but I realized I've hovered in BSL land for entirely too long now. And I've decided that I'm officially I'm over it. Yes, I started with over-processed thin ends. I gradually trimmed away at those. Yes, I had a terrible setback last year with shedding. I gradually trimmed away at that. However, I don't think those issues are the real problem. Up until a few weeks ago, I had a secret love affair with my flat iron Robby. (Yes, my flat iron has a name. We in a judgement free zone chicas!) More often than not, I would flat iron once a week only on wash day. Almost. every. wash. Eek! I actually felt like it was an accomplishment because before I started my journey I would flat iron once a day; sometimes more if I wanted to touch up my roots before an event or outing. (Which is why my hair was a mess to begin with!) 
  

November 2010

July 2011

November 2011

Whilst, ignorance was bliss, knowing that you are doing something to undermine your long-term goals just seems--well---loca! I want MBL this year. Therefore, I need to want to: freeze, put down Robby, and back away slowly with my hands in the air.

Bad Habit Detox
With all that said, I've gotta detox this bad habit. I really want to see how long I can go without whipping the flat iron out. For the last few weeks, I've ditched sleek tresses for fluffy air dried hair and it wasn't that bad. No seriously--It really wasn't! I hope to start detoxing after my next relaxer at the end of March. Can I go a full stretch (12-16 weeks) without using the flat iron? *Sigh*...I sure hope so. So here's the catch, I can't do this detox alone. I'd go mad! Please send all the air drying tips, detangling tricks, and styling tutorials that you got my way! I'm totally gonna need it!


You in?

Un mil besitos
KLP

SOS: Overprocessed Relaxed Hair

The number tip, trick, or inside scoop that I give to growing and maintaining hair length is simple--and yet very complicated--Stop over-processing your hair. Relaxing chemically breaks down the structure of your hair to permanently straighten it. If you relax the same parts of your hair strand over and over, it will cause damage, breakage and even hair loss.

Is My Hair Over-processed?

• Do you have extremely thin or split ends?
• When you manipulate your hair in even the gentlest ways--do you have a lot of broken hairs?
• Do you apply the relaxer to your previously relaxed hair?
• Do use heat everyday?

Before I started my healthy hair journey, I was guilty of  all of these relaxing sins. My ends were jagged. My hair broke off if you looked at it wrong. I siempre self-relaxed from root to tip. The flat iron was my BBF! Over-processed wouldn't grow past my shoulders hair was what I had to show for it. I knew that I wanted thick blunt ends and a healthy head of hair, but I wasn't quite sure where to start. After some research, it hit me that first, I needed to change my relaxing ways. Here's what I did: 

1. Stopped applying relaxer to previously processed hair. I grew up relaxing from root to tip. It never entered my realm of thought that I only needed to "touch up" my roots. By applying the relaxer to previously processed hair, I was further breaking down my hair, and causing my ends to grow thinner and thinner. There was no way that I could continue to do that and expect to retain length. 
2. Stopped guessing and started reading. I actually sat down and read the instructions for my relaxer kit (in English, then in Spanish too). Every kit is different so you can't assume that you know until you read it's manual.
3. Stopped using relaxers that were too strong. I did a strand test to see if the relaxer strength was appropriate for my hair and to verify which processing timing was right for me.
4. Stopped relaxing and applying direct heat. This was the hardest sin to break. Until I found heat free ways to straighten my hair. Although I still love my flat iron, I know that absence does make the heart grow fonder and in this particular case--the hair grown longer.

Eventually, I decided that bone straight relaxed hair wasn't for me and I transitioned to texlaxing in 2010. (purposefully under-processing your hair during a relaxer). The scary/yet rewarding part about using chemicals like relaxers to straighten your hair is that its permanent. Get it right, and you're golden. Slip up and you're stuck with it. So if you're going to do it, do it right. Arm yourself with as much knowledge as possible and when in doubt, find a trusted experienced licensed professional salon to apply your relaxer.

Have you ever had over-processed hair? How did you save it?


Un mil besitos!

KLP